Tutorial on how to fit a DCC decoder on Hornby’s R3320 ‘Golden Eagle’
Hi guys welcome back to another video. Today we’ve got a sort of how-to demonstration sort of video and as you can see from down here I’m going to be basically doing a tutorial on how to fit one of these – which is a DCC decoder. Obviously you can get quite a few different versions of these. This is sort of one of the more basic relatively cheap ones but obviously you can get some more complicated – with I think like water and coal usage, then obviously you can now get the sound units as well. Sure a lot more expensive, but yeah I’m essentially going to be converting this engine here which is the Hornby Golden Eagle. So it’s a new release by hornby that’s only been out in the last year or so. I’ve put plenty of videos and stuff up on my channel about it and photos on my Instagram, so yeah, all you really need is obviously the engine itself. In this case you do sort of need the box because you do need to flip the engine upside down and in the new packaging as I’ll show you it it comes with the new source star packaging. Which is very helpful when you want to do that well this is just what comes in the little decoder pack your you plug goods are gets to keep the information on it especially if it’s your first time and you get this little chip here with these little 600 sorry on 8 prongs which will come on to in a minute and the basic tools you need you don’t really need very much they’ll Phillips screwdriver flat head and just a pair of pliers tweezers and so yeah let’s let’s get started maybe put some of these to the side we don’t need them and use them right in life you want to obviously open the box and the this is the new store start packaging I was telling you about and bring that closer.
It’s the new sort of plastic thing we saw split up – just like takes all the detailing and everything out of that you use also another good thing about obviously opens all the walls before election you know yourself it does actually tell you in most most products in the leaflet now that you get where the decoder is fitted so in this one particular engine it’s an attendant which actually makes life a lot a lot easier and but the the principle is the same wherever you decide onion whether it’s being diesel etc so we put so yeah you want to put the engine for free and back into this case you don’t want to connect it though because what we’re going to do is I’m going to take it to the other table and you also want to keep hold of it like this because this clip isn’t holding in place and then you want to flicker and there you go you know if lunge and perfectly source taper and upside down there are I have seen sort of thorium sort of things that you can actually just put the engine upside down in so you don’t to go through that process but I don’t have one of those but that is another sort of option but if I just zoom in to you in the right position you can see that coupling that now that couplings all comes on a lot of the modern engines you’ve got this little plug here which I’ve actually detached prior to this just because it’s a bit fiddly I’m gonna take a wall but you obviously that plug I’m not sure that I’m sure the fitting fits in that little bit there so you want to move that up obviously because it’s in the tender even if it’s in the actual under the locos show you probably wanted to touch the tender though I guess it depends what engine it sort of is but you probably want to split them just so it makes it very easier but as it’s in the tender we need sorry we need to undo this copper in push no home already it’s not very difficult it’s just a little flathead screw and then we can push the engine away because we don’t really and we can literally just take the tender away like that and this is where the decoder is going to be fitted.
And obviously as I just showed in the instruction I know it tells you actually that the screw that you need to remove is actually under this coupling here, under the DCC decoder, which you might be a bit hesitant to remove. But it’s actually really simple because you can sort of hopefully see that that is just a little sort of plug thing that’s all we have to do let’s get the flat-head screwdriver underneath it pop it up and just pops out it’s not broken or anything you can actually just pop it straight back in after and now in that it will hold her we have that is work you need to get a Phillips and unscrew attend to the and it’s only one there is as you can probably see two more screws but you don’t need to undo that just and removes this or plate here which holds the wheel and the wheel sort and price, for fitting a DCC decoder. And yeah all it is and literally you can see there’s that little clip on the front there that just clips in there and just pull straight off it’s really easy to do and you’re presented with this now this is what you’ll most likely see on whatever engine you take the body off whether it’s in the tender or in the actual the body of the engine or if you’ve got diesel or another sort of electric it will be the same it will look the same gets this you’re just this little plug thing but as you can see if I turn around this is DC on it very clearly and another thing you want to always remember is wear that number one is most engines will have it written on this plate and this sort of brownie plate underneath but I have had some in the past which happened so you always want to bear in mind where that number one is and remember because that is where you’re gonna have to make sure you put the number one the number one prong on the dista coder which is always the number orange one and you can hopefully see just up in the top left corner there there’s a little number one just sort of reminding you so it’ll work out that my mind and what you have to do is with the flat head again be very careful do it very gently and just get prise it up, because obviously you don’t want to ruin like there’s obviously and wires of surrounding this which you don’t want to damage yeah there you go and you can actually see that that little arrow there and up there there’s a number one so that’s number one slot there and all you need to do is then get your decoder work out where number one is.
So it isn’t that way as you can see – it’s a sort of number one slot up there. I don’t know if it’s focusing or not but and then all you do is just line them up like this make sure they’re in the right sort of slot and you can gently press down into this in and obviously you just got to be careful that you’re not doing a too hard or you’re just going to make sure that it’s lined up properly because you don’t want any of those promises or bend or anything like that you can also put the insulating sleeve around but you don’t necessarily so strictly need to do that because well it’s mainly if it contacts metal I think I’m gonna be okay and I’m just gonna quickly quickly put it back together and show you solve so yeah so there you have it that’s literally the engine is now digital so it’s not a soft hard process at all I think a lot of people sort of think it’s a really tedious sort of expensive which what you is a bit pricey but I guess it depends how you do and process by the way all you have to do now is just repeat the processes that we just did in Reverse so I’ve clipped the tender back into place now string that screw so obviously now the time the body doesn’t come up and then that coupling I mentioned earlier you just get it re line it up and push it back into place and then you can just get a little flow get a little flat head and sort of just push it so it clicks into place and there you go that’s exactly how it was before and it probably is worth keeping this little instruction manual that comes with them comes with resort decoder just because where there is I don’t know if you noticed on there there is a little wire which is actually an loose like it doesn’t actually connect to anything it doesn’t connect to the chip and that’s like I know that that that wire is if you want to connect up to any lights or anything in the future and it just sort of tells you what all the other sort of fan the wires do and stuff like that so probably worth keeping maybe wanna thing and in case you have any problems and the yeah we’re just gonna go and repeat that process I’m now lining up the the little coupling here which is quite tedious I’ve found in the past to actually try to get back together okay so that more long-winded than I thought and it was a bit while it was more just difficult to do in front of a camera but you can hopefully see there I’ve reconnected the little copying and I’ve put in the electrical plug so all we have to do now is and why is this front will be annoying all you have to do is [Applause] make sure you hold it tightly so that engine is now completely digital ready so yeah it’s really not very sort of long process that’s all obviously this only took about 5-10 minutes something like that they’re all obviously sort pros and cons and but I I think the pros probably outweigh the cons to be honest I think the only con is really the price sort of the price of I guess in difference and you also have to spend more but other than that I think it’s definitely worth investing because you can still run these engines on DC but then you can obviously run them on digital as well so you saw get the best of both worlds really.
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