Fitting DCC Decoders to Bachmann Derby Lightweight DMU Part 1 of 2

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Opening and fitting a DCC Concepts Zen decoder to a Bachmann Derby Lightweight DMU. Look out for the second video in this series on fitting DCC decoders, that shows fitting the second decoder to the non-motorised half of the unit.

TRANSCRIPT:

The Darby lightweight two card EMU set from Backman – we’ll be opening this today and fit in DCC chips to it as well as getting commissioned so I’m using one of these which is DCC concept Zen with keep alive which is a neat thing plug-in chip together with a background six pin small chip to go in the second unit so it takes two decoders this one which makes it a bit hungry in terms of requiring lots of lots of chips so there’ll be like a unit in green unit that I’ve been hoping to get for quite some time I can remember back to any journey traveling between Shrewsbury and crew on one of these units and I remember it’s been the sixties it was where they used to keep the blinds up so you could ever phenomenal view back over the track I couldn’t member sitting backwards when I was quite young so whenever bit of nostalgia for this one which is always good with trains so without any further ado we’ll open the package so familiar Batman packaging this ticket to be an incentive there what else we got in the box we’ve as usual got the instructions together with the warranty which shows an exploded diagram of how to take everything apart which we all have to do in a minute so just having a quick look on that see any recommendation for a CCC fitting it says there’s a screw behind the bogie so there’s a couple of clips on the side to get off as well so one screw to take out and a couple of clips to access the site so this is not going to be Anna come fertile one to take apart because it’s never nice to take a pass locomotive so let’s just get on to take it away from the box and check in the weight of them this one’s the dummy so it’s much lighter than the other one so we’ll put that aside for one moment and then we’ll deal with the multiple gears comes with a collection off pass to an ATM and we’ve got some extra coupling parts which we won’t be fit in because this will be I would this will be we’ll be using the couplings on it.

So join it up to a unit and looks like we’ve got a collection of its place to put on here which are upside down so I can’t see what they are in a packet to see go there no they’re actually blanket oh so they’ll be the the detectors which were fitted for postal break-ins so will probably not be fit in this all right okay so there’s the unit itself this is where we get my cradle out to put the unit in so there’s lots of delicate stuff on it so we’ll be extra careful put this over the top first off and very very gently I’m upside down so not quite sitting in there properly at the moment so got the unit upside down the bottoms always good when there’s been a bit of fur to ensure that everything’s booked then you go along here so just by done off to begin with so bit of all settled on the universe’s being you so there we have it power connection from all axles as usual nice bit of detail on there this one says it’s honest way to man 2 hey field which I’ve got no idea where that is so apologies if you live there and first of all what we’ll do is should run around on a track to make sure it works on PCC but we’ll take a cheats way up with this one and use trouble power supply on the bench and lay it upside down so giving ourselves a little bit of power to get ourselves going in so it’s just check to make sure everything’s running quite happily so I’m making sure we’re clear of everything just tap into this I’m just training quite nicely the lights come on as well which is good to see and just check that it runs the other way around swapping over the controller that’s my way is that long enough to reach so already nice in those directions so no problem into that so we’re ready now to take the top off so it’s position it this way it says as a there’s a screw somewhere so we’ll just have a look to see how that home to the bogies off can’t see anything there so must be at the other end there’s a couple of clips to get off on this one to just unbox it so this is where we’re gonna get some parts like these are new spreaders which are used to which we’ll use this to join everybody to my remedies but good ones just these down the sides of so all set now with mi6 cycling mothers ready to go there we just got to locate this one screw which attaches the body on and I can just see it there underneath this part so safe so we’ll just find a way just position it so it can actually gain access to the screw which is a bit more exciting than its mid TV so we can just about get screwed over in there I think know what’s gonna play a small school go see if we can get in there so really fiddly to get so using slightly long screws I got that I would take comes this is we go here so just prepare underneath there just pick it out and put that screw aside to one side so we don’t lose it stuck to the tweezers.

Details on Fitting DCC Decoders

But there we go so now it’s just a case of calling the instructions gently he’s in the side away which is always famous last words so let’s see if we can figure out where there’s a gap somewhere to get this process started so yeah nothing really happening there so that’s the first one in and try one get one in the other side so she the side away try not to use anything metal on this just damaging it but did a little tight fit picture so ease it gently up there so know that we’re in with those put another one in slide out up so just always out there so I think we want to under Clips once you’ve got one ended straight forward because you just helps to ease everything up so we’ve got three in that side these are on top of wings and icons it out as well which is which again that’s good for future and same thing with this working from the center though you’re the clips coming apart as we go I’ll just want more to get in there and then with a bit of local with a bit of luck we might almost be there for today we go so then very gently to take my life in my hands just slowly ease it up with a bit of movement at the front end that seems okay back seems a little bit caught let’s just swing up a little bit just a little bit of pressure just he was catching I’m not quite off that’s just up there yeah that seems to be the back side seems from there this is a very tight fit so yeah not moving at all there I’m just wondering if there’s a screw the other end holding in place at this point not supposed to be so just waggle it a little bit yeah we’re very scary at this point in time so train desperately not to do any damage so having much of it so let’s just a check on the side see if we just have another look to see for the screw holding at this end can’t see anything looks okay from mind let’s make sure we align their movement so check back in the instructions so children the six clips they’re just making sure that okay so that’s ever let’s have another go up the other way again so you’ve all been to the front let’s take the lid off for the moment and then just winding it’s a little bit so going anyway very much so there’s a tip here in the front and so just it’s nice and loose so different trips holding it on this again anybody fiddly trying to get this to come up so bit of movement but still making slow progress oh that was it and then I think we were quite down to the clips of the back so it sprayed it a little there we also the front to come out how and just check and okay to the back plastic inside you’re sort of stuck so what’s going on there I think a scientific cordon clip so we’re clean now come to this side it’s just this one got a little bit of a problem yes so the the plastic inside seems to pork on the side just push that tracker hopefully no damage done we’ll find out in a minute when we get the top off.

 

So there let’s do this first for Jen because sometimes this Y is inside never having to take one of these apart before okay sure what to find oh and there’s two spring contacts there so we’ve come off a little bit off here so the size come loose so hopefully that will go back into place we pull this down so set that tight one point so this is where we look for the blanking plug and there’s there’s where the led needs to go other where the chip needs to go in rather so I’ve been identified that let’s describe the site so just take off about six or seven millimeters of insulation off each end then from the stay like capacitor a little bit of a longer length on there and coil away at first again six or seven millimeters off a little bit of insulation is already been removed from these take those off so just pull that insulation off so there we have nice couple of millimeter on there so always important but your heat shrink sleeping on first it’s very very difficult to do this afterwards then you have to solder it to do that so always fit those first and these will support the joints once they’re made weakest points in this are always going to be the actual joints themselves so connect blue wire to blue wire and then wrap them around each other to make a nice strong bond so best to make a nice strong physical joint to make sure that the Salter will take really well and then there’s still something there to hold it so I’m just twisting two wires around each other oh and they’ve come undone so let’s have another go so I’ll just twist one wire over the other one that’s being fiddly today so do the same thing with this one why is over each other try and lock them round each other so that they hold on to each other so both why they twisted around each other so that’s it better now that’s a that’s a better joint and the first one so same thing with the two black wires about halfway overlap then wrap one over when when over the other side so on so give a nice couple of turns so there we have two nice wrappings and using a solder stand just to support them must be solder them up so just tranquila t-cog as well out the way keep the soldering iron well away from them all the possibility of solder dropping onto the chips so we’re ready to solder them should be nice and hot it is just test the soldering iron with a bit of solder on the tip just make sure it melts which is nice a fede for a win usual cloudy offer of flux as it melts and I just law my lamp down here to just see one making a good joint so all trick to this is not very much solder just enough to coat everything in terms of making sure that’s there and just really gently along there on same for the other joint a little bit of solder on there so there we go just run it should pick that up there we go nicely just use pair of pliers just take the heat over the two joints make sure they’re fine.

I’m fine thing to do now is to connect the two halves together by using heat shrink sleeving so I can off the joint little bit there move the joint cut in the middle then we’ll just put that gently in there to stop that moving second use a soldering iron just move it gently up in this end which will then shrink the tube over the top of it so caught it all the way around nice nice with the heat on there so your players come in to make sure that we get everything so just hold that on there just melt up insulation against it it makes it nice and tight lots of support for the joint inside there just make sure you get every side so did shrinks quite easily around it so there we have it that’s a good one and same thing with the other joint so just move this on all the top now they’re just each of this emphasis like you on there again repeat the operation in terms of just shrinking the heat shrinks leading onto it so I’m not using the tip of the solder line for this but halfway up the shoulder so make sure we don’t get any sold it on there itself which will be on the tip of the iron just it’ll to be drawn there and so there we have it – nice little joint so we’ve got then chip there together with it to keep a life connected up to it all nicely insulated with to solder joints nicely crimped heat shrink sleeve so nice and strong there so we are all ready to be installed in a device so just get jet screwdriver underneath this just Genie prize this away lifting at both ends just to make sure you get it nice and even and take the blanking plug out so I’ll come out and as other costs drop down inside it to make it nice and awkward so we’ll just get a pair of pliers which are essential tweezers rather to get that up so they’ve got our socket I won’t looking for here is to make sure see where it’s numbered number one which as always is no clue so just eat it I’ve looked my light just to deceive us so no real clues at all but we’ll get our chip and see how it fits so I have a problem here because it it doesn’t fit nicely within the area so the chips are gonna be white to go between these two metal contacts at the top so that’s nice and exciting meaning to do is to perhaps look for another clip to put on it perhaps a socket so bit difficult in terms of knowing which ones right way up pin one there and I think it is so probably needs to go in this way around that’s a little bit of a problem with these stick-up it’s a contact which led to the top look at the inside to see how best to fit this may be that this is not the rest DCC chip to go in this one let’s have a look and see what the hardwood so you know back again just have a look to see how we can fit this in so if we do manage to get that in there that will fit in a quote happen I think so just mention emphasize looks like we have a problem with these they’re these little tabs have been in the way so thank you back when this makes it nice and difficult to fit chips in curiously.

More On Fitting A Decoder

I have plenty of space on the top for the they keep me keep clear keep alive wrong so then your space on the top for the keeper line and also plenty of space for to actually meant a chip so what we may have to do is just make it a lot of sake to join it all so once we set up a soldering iron well I’ll just uh over the poles so here we are back again and what I’ve done is soldered on a connection to the bottom of the DCC decoder but probably better to use a flat ik holder which is a decoder which is more that size and I’ve had to do with this one so this is probably a bit bit big to fit in there so if you are doing one of these models make sure you get a nice small encoder to fit inside it so check in that we’re getting this right we’ll put it in this away your room just why is it so line that up nicely just this in which is a little bit fiddly so before we do any more we’ll need to just test to make sure that this is working so here we are over the test track so the decoder is a call set to the default three so let’s just try to see if it works so turn up the power oh yeah we’re working in that direction so just swap direction on that one and three is working quite nicely on that way as well so drops to success so all we got to do now is put it back together again so here we are back on the work bench so we just need a little bit of this which is back tack to just hold everything down and we just need to make a bit of sense of these wires so I’ll just move these out of the way so well want to stick our ship down first so we’ll try to fit that in there so that will work quite nicely just about clearance I think when we put the top on this little pack which isn’t gonna fit in there so we’re gonna have to Munt it there I think and then just calling these wires up right so let’s get a little bit of the black tack and we’ll attach there we’ll stick down the battery first sorry the capacitors to stay and keep a long section so let’s just get down oh yeah nice nice big blobby to over it and we’ll stick down here which is on top of a ball – nicely tight down there then all got to do is just tie it these wires up a little bit so we’ll call them back around on each other you know like a good installation yep so I mean haven’t got bones there they can they can sit nicely and in there so now it’s just a case of they put some black tack on the bottom of this one and then we can stick that down and then we look at attaching away is so I’ve got this black tack out we just fit that over the bottom it’ll help to protect our electrical connections we got there as well make sure we don’t touch any of their the metalwork with him so fit that in there just stick that on the top layer like that so that’s sitting there nicely bit of a problem with these wires so we might put a bit of tape over those just to hold them in place so it’s gone point okay so now time to put the top back on which is reversible you know for those so know that everything’s in everything is nicely taped down so just a case of doing the opposite just to very gently eases back in so you’ll trinket in this side where the windows are gonna be loose so just dropping in so just keep this lined up as we go then we just don’t need to etch it over the to little over its little hold it in place and only too far so we’re just like that little tab so just a little bit just was it frog movement huh so I think we just a bit to misalign to the back there cuz we called on these back tabs.

So we just need to slide the whole thing past this line up with the back lens so that’s looking good so ease it in just catch it on the plastic tabs on the site so you can see somewhere so my white tapes not gonna do very well see that’s visible for the window so we’re gonna have to we have to replace that with some black tape take the top off before you go any further and just get that one tape off so what we ended up doing is put some just put some black tack on there instead so we dispense with the white tape which means we should be so now when we look continues so just a case now off put the top back on and use that that one once again so all this time trying to I think before I proceed any further just stick in this side you sure solutions likely a little just take it this right should be sufficient so nice bit of pressure so put that superglue on and that’s all nice and tight now okay the other side so don’t we use the top back on so again nice and gently so we’ve got a black tack holding everything in place so fingers crossed this will be either this will be it this time so just trim the line it up make sure everything fits unexpected and caulked a little bit on the sides as we go just getting caught on the side so just catching a little bit on so just use a little bit of these clips just to ease the pressure so we can write a prop from this one so I’ll figure out where that front clip is so he’s been yeah so yeah we’re looking good for that one on this side same thing again yeah that’s looking good dad then final one yes just yeah so now that was there should just be case of course gently down I’ll do a little bit closer yeah yeah just in the back in the back hopefully our chips not holding out me a bit of a problem so Elliot I think we just miss Lange start climbing back just a little bit that should be it another factor a problem let’s just push some of these bits and pieces down slide him over a bit just make sure he’s not sticking out same thing with my ass just down a little bit so let’s try that pin yeah are you shooting the horrible thinking nothing holding it there other than possibly chips in what’s going on we possibly can so see if that’s any better how the easiest things most get back together so cause he watches so a little bit of a strange configuration yeah I just had to put the chipper undersigned and then put the keep alive in there I think that’s what was keeping the table off so we’ll have a look and see if that does the trick that proved to be the right thing to do so friendly got everything back in there you can just see the decoder at this end unfortunately but hopefully that won’t show up too much when it’s on the layout we might cover get some black tape to cover it over at some point that yeah all back together again now so we’re all ready to run another layer

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Comments

William Glover says:

I would hate to fit sound to that.
You would think Bachmann would make it easier to fit.

C Up_side_Down says:

You need the micro Zen for those transverse Bachmann 8 pin sockets! Just a few $$ more

crazyvec says:

Greetings Nige…. having just bought one of these thought I would try to find a "how to",  great to see the use of proper solder good old RS.  Thanks for the info and thanks for sharing… it looks a challenge…..cheers…steve

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